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2007 Costanti Brunello Pre-Release Party (95 points)
There are two sides of Brunello -- on the palate and on the map. The southern hills are warm, offering up the most modernistic approaches to this ancient appellation, wines that sport almost New World concentration, often buttressed by muscular Cabernet Sauvignon.
But in our book, we don't need to travel all the way to the Tuscan hills to taste Napa Valley knockoffs. We come instead for the seductive side of Montalcino, wines that offer up Burgundian aromatics, richest Pinot Noir-like concentration and balance, all stapled together with a splash of Brunello rusticity.
If that's your preference, it's best to steer away from those hot southern hills and head north. Once you get there, do everything possible to sneak your way into what many (count us among them) believe to be Brunello's greatest cellar, the one now overseen by the inimitable Andrea Costanti.
Unlike many of the big spreads in Brunello, Costanti has remained small. Just 10 hectares are planted on these well-drained, fine, friable soils, helping to explain the ethereal Burgundian elegance of Costanti Sangiovese. While others have ridden the new world train, promoting concentration over elegance, Andrea has stayed true to the appellation, hand shaping each plant, always conscious to protect clusters from the scorching Tuscan sun. In a 2007 growing season that all but replayed the torrid summer days of 2003, Costanti was more vigilant than ever -- a vigilance that provided for this extravagantly rich, yet incredibly structured and flashy Brunello di Montalcino.
Robert Parker has long been a Costanti flag waver. But particularly with this release, the Wine Advocate review bears a careful reading. In a vintage where the wines from the hottest sectors of the appellation are dark and lavish out of the gate, but lack the acid backbone required so as to pass the test of time, Costanti put out a brilliant, freakishly anomalous effort that offers up tremendous raspberry, wild cherry richness, silken texture, and signature elegance.
The Wine Advocate described it like this: "Sweet floral notes lead to hints of tobacco, wild herbs and spices on the refined finish. Layers of fruit flesh out beautifully in a radiant, expressive wine that captures the essence of the vintage. This is a fabulous showing from Andrea Costanti. Anticipated maturity: 2017-2027." Then Antonio Galloni tacked on the 95 point score that robbed us of most of our allocation.
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Tasting Notes
2007 Costanti Brunello di Montalcino
"The 2007 Brunello di Montalcino is a model of grace and elegance. This isn't a huge, powerful wine like the 2006, but rather a Brunello that impresses for its total finesse. Sweet floral notes lead to hints of tobacco, wild herbs and spices on the refined finish. Layers of fruit flesh out beautifully in a radiant, expressive wine that captures the essence of the vintage. Costanti gave the 2007 Brunello 36 months in oak, 18 months in medium-sized barrels followed by 18 months in cask. This is a fabulous showing from Andrea Costanti. Anticipated maturity: 2017-2027."
95 points -- Robert Parker's The Wine Advocate
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*Important Shipping Information
- This is a Pre-Arrival Offer: Weather permitting, wine will begin shipping upon arrival, in September, 2012.
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By law, wine may ONLY be shipped to the following states: AZ, CA, CO, CT, DC, FL, GA, IA, ID, IL, KS, LA, ME, MI, MN, MO, NC, ND, NE, NH, NM, NV, OH, OR, PA, SC, TN, VA, VT, WA, WI, WV, WY.