2010 Domaine Corsin Pouilly-Fuisse Vieilles Vignes
 
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La Roche de Solutré "Why Tease the Market When There's Nothing to Sell?"

The 2008 and 2009 Pouilly-Fuisses from the Corsin brothers in Davaye were two of the most talked about old-vine white Burgundies of recent years. Stephen Tanzer, the top Burgundy critic on the planet, rarely drops 90 point scores on Chardonnays of the Mâconnais. But in back-to-back years, Tanzer couldn't hold back, publishing 92pt raves on each vintage.

Four months ago, on the eve of the release of the long-awaited 2010, we called Jean-Jacques Corsin, hoping to eke out another small allocation. Tanzer had yet to rate the wine. Nor had France's Guide Hachette or Wine Spectator. We'd wait a month for Corsin to return our call. It wouldn't take long to learn why.

Here, on the undulating limestone hillsides beneath the white crags of La Roche de Solutré, a cool, gray May of 2010 set flowering back nearly two weeks. The summer would ride the seesaw between sun and drizzle. Jean-Jacques and his small crew worked tirelessly in the old vines, dropping crop to maintain optimum aeration between the bunches, avoiding the mildew problems that afflicted many of their neighbors. September remained cool, but largely due to the tiny crop size, the clusters that remained reached superb maturity, while still infused with electrifying acidity. The early morning harvest of the second week of the month, Corsin told us, would yield just 2.5 tons per acre -- the smallest harvest in a decade.

The 2010 Corsin Pouilly-Fuisse, drawn entirely from 50+-year-old vines in the center cut of this storied appellation, is pale golden in color. The aromas are of ripe pear and apple, laced with quince, terrifically mineral and almost saline. The attack is both rich, finely layered and perfectly poised and restrained -- a logical blend of the phenolic concentration of 2008 and the ethereal floral juiciness of 2002.

Jean-Jacques and Gilles Corsin consider their 2010 old-vine Pouilly-Fuisse to be not only one of the more complex Chardonnays ever to come off the property, but one of the most age-worthy. Given that the 1985 Pouilly-Fuisse in our cellar is just hitting full stride, the brothers aren't just whistling Dixie.

So why then, with all the critical hoopla around the 2010 white Burgundies, has no review ever been published of the 2010 Pouilly-Fuisse. "C'est facile," Jean-Jacques told us. "Production is down 35%. Why tease the market when we have nothing to sell?" Fair point.



Tasting Notes

2010 Domaine Corsin Pouilly-Fuisse Vieilles Vignes
"Pale golden in color. The aromas are of ripe pear and apple, laced with quince, terrifically mineral and almost saline. The attack is both rich, finely layered, filled with apple, quince and bitter pineapple, perfectly poised and restrained -- a logical blend of the phenolic concentration of 2008 and the ethereal floral juiciness of 2002. Drink -- sometime in 2030!"
-- WineAccess Travel Log

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