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92pts and Blame it on Molesworth
It would be one of the more frustrating stories of 2012. Early on, when we first began tasting the 2010 Rhone reds from barrel and cask, we knew what we had in hand. Unfortunately, Robert Parker and James Molesworth saw it just as we did.
Parker described 2010 as one of the "two greatest vintages I have ever tasted in thirty-three years of visiting the region." Wine Spectator came on even more strongly. Molesworth wrote that the "2010 vintage reaches new heights in a region that has already been on an impressive roll." Then he punctuated his exhaustive coverage with the 98-point vintage rating that would instantly make our jobs so much more difficult.
Three years ago, we went on a massive shopping spree in and around Chateauneuf-du-Pape, treating hundreds of members to a regular diet of ultra-concentrated, high-scoring 2007s. We knocked on the doors of every top address from Courthezon to Gigondas, Rasteau to Vinsobres, reeling them all in. Cristia, Mordoree, Beaucastel, Couroulu, Barroche, Vaudieu and Bosquets all graced our pages. Why then, given our early understanding of the sensational concentration and age-worthy vibrancy of the finest 2010s, did we not do the same this year?
Some forget that yields in 2007 were strong, some estates harvesting as much as three tons per acre of juicy, old vine Grenache. The 2010 growing season was far stingier. The spring set was small, particularly for temperamental Grenache. Daytime temperatures were generally mild. The nights were unusually cool. The clusters harvested by the most fastidious domaines offered up both high sugars and excellent acidity -- numbers not seen since 1978, a vintage in which many top bottles are still going strong.
Yields, however, were down 30-40%!
We went back to each of the usual suspects. As always, we were greeted warmly. The tastings lasted hours, often topped off with one of those look-alike '78s -- most of which were still going strong. The vintage discussion was animated. But when it came time to cut to the chase, to do what we're paid to do, all too often, we were left hanging. Parker's report, then Molesworth's 98-point vintage rating -- and yields of less than two tons per acre -- have a way of doing that. Which brings us to our dinner at L'Oustelet in Gigondas with one of the young superstars of the southern Rhone, Adrien Fabre.
We were among the first to discover Fabre's brilliance. Beginning in 2007, and for three years running, Adrien gave us first crack at a stunning single vineyard blend, drawn from a cobblestone moonscape high above the Mistral-bathed village of St. Maurice. From 2007-2009, we locked into a hundred case allocation of the Domaine de l'Echevin "Guillaume de Rouville." But when the waiter set down the crème brulee, and the conversation turned to our allocation of this staggering 2010, Adrien balked. Then he showed us the Wine Spectator report that made us wish James Molesworth developed a bad case of writer's block.
There are hundreds of small estates set on hillsides in the satellite communes outside of Chateauneuf-du-Pape. Maybe a dozen of them are tended as meticulously as Fabre's oasis above St. Maurice. All turned out fabulous 2010s. Why couldn't Molesworth have focused on one of them on the first page of his 98-point vintage report? Did he have to call the world's attention to what many now believe is the finest under-$20 bargain of the greatest vintage since 1978?
Deep ruby in color with luscious, complex aromas of red raspberry, Earl Gray tea and tobacco. Rich, powerful and compact on the attack, with fine dark layers of crushed red fruit preserves, all bracketed by riveting backbone. Drink now, but after a full hour in an open carafe, or age for 5-7 years in a cool cellar.
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Tasting Notes
"Dark and rich, but with lovely detail, as charcoal and black tea hints underscore layers of dark plum, blackberry paste and warm fig sauce. Very alluring, with a suave finish."
92 points -- James Molesworth, Wine Spectator
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