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91pts and Rib Eye Magic
There's really not much competition down here at the price. In back to back vintages, Pascal and Richard Jaume put out gorgeous, dark raspberry blends of floral, old vine Grenache and plumpest Syrah from one small piece of their family estate, set at almost 1500 feet -- the highest perch in Vinsobres.
Over grilled rib eye off of Richard's BBQ last Friday, we nursed a half dozen vintages of these juicy, high-toned blends, not one of which had shed an ounce of its primary fruit fat. But if the 2006 was surely the most classical, the 2007, the softest and most voluptuous, it would be the Spectator's 91pt 2009 that seemed poised to steal the afternoon show. That is, until the equally rich, dazzlingly Burgundian 2010 took center stage and performed its high wire act.
From cellar to cellar, this story continues to repeat itself. While the hot 2009 growing season accounted for bottles of immense, small berry concentration, the exquisite 2010s from the top cellars offer up a type of juicy, almost Cote de Nuits complexity not seen in the Rhone Valley since the days when no one spoke of global warming. In a growing season that all called challenging and some called miraculous, the most meticulous farmers nursed remarkably clean, beautifully formed clusters to magical physiological maturity. Up here, in the high ground of the northern tip of the southern Rhone Valley, no one fared better than les frères Jaume.
"2009 was all about power. Thick skins. Small berries." Pascal told us. "But in 2010, the skin to juice ratio was much lower, so while we had nearly equal sugars, there was virtually no raisin-ing or shrivel to the skins. Yields were down close to 30%. Initially, we thought careful sorting would be essential to insure quality. So we sorted once in the vines, then again on the sorting table. But it was hardly necessary. The clusters were incredibly clean. The harvest was magique."
We try our best to engage, educate and amuse our readers with these stories, but sometimes the best way to make our case is to do as we did on Richard's patio. Just drink the stuff. Line up one bottle from each vintage. Keep the temperature down to about 62 degrees. Pull out the big Riedels -- and let the wines tell the vintage stories. Then you can keep score for yourself.
The 2009 "Altitude 420," one of the top-rated Wine Spectator bargains of that torrid summer, is deep purple in color, laced with aromas of dark red fruits, cherry pit and kirsch. Powerfully concentrated on the attack (this one is just shy of 14.8% alcohol), packed with raspberry compote and plum, the tannins have softened, but remain present and promising.
The just released 2010 is another take on "420." Glistening ruby red to the edge, with gorgeous high-toned aromas of fresh raspberry and wild cherry. Rich and juicy on the attack, still deliciously light on its feet, with fine, silken texture, and more refreshing, supple tannins. As to longevity, no worries. This one's built to go the distance as well.
James Molesworth, whose take on the southern Rhone mimics ours, came in at 91 points on the powerhouse 2009. Word has it that Molesworth is ready to weigh in on the 2010 "Altitude 420," and that he's about to raise that bar.
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Tasting Notes
2009 Domaine Jaume Vinsobres Altitude 420 Cotes du Rhone
"This sports a distinctive violet and anise edge to the plum, blackberry and fig sauce notes, which all glide seamlessly through the finish of dark tea and spice. Shows a lovely crushed velvet feel in the end. There's more freshness and detail here than in Jaume's Référence bottling."
91 points -- James Molesworth, Wine Spectator
2010 Domaine Jaume Vinsobres Altitude 420 Cotes du Rhone
"Deep ruby to the edge. Explosive floral aromas of red raspberry and wild cherry, laced with herbes-de-Provence. Rich and juicy on the attack, at once wonderfully concentrated and light on its feet, packed with crushed red fruits without any sense of over ripeness or undue weight. Beautifully lively on the finish, with excellent persistence and vibrancy, arguing for a half dozen years in a cool cellar."
-- WineAccess Travel Log
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*Important Shipping Information
- Orders will begin shipping the week of July 9, 2012.
- You will be provided with the exact shipment date during checkout.
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