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A Retirement Postponed
It was about time. Winemaker Terry Adams had spent 25 years running the show at Sonoma-Cutrer. And what a show it had been. Adams had helped engineer the birth and ascent of Sonoma's most famous label, going from a small, handcrafted winery to a call brand behemoth. But even superstars like to go out on top. So, one day, Terry hung up his pipette for what he figured to be the last time. He then took that familiar ride back down to Occidental, bending up sun-speckled Joy Road, to pop a beer and wait for the fog to roll in.
When the call came in from Tracy Dutton just after the miracle harvest of 2009, Terry was flattered. Many had called to wish him well, but well wishing from anyone named "Dutton" carried special importance to Adams. In the early days at Sonoma-Cutrer, Terry contracted for grapes and developed a special relationship with Sonoma's most renown grape grower, Warren Dutton. Warren was a brilliant farmer and entrepreneur, but more than anything, Warren Dutton was a gentleman -- honest as fog-shrouded Green Valley days are long.
Terry recounted, "Had anyone else called and posed the question Tracy posed, I would have politely said no. We'd made up our minds. I was moving into Q4. It was time. But this wasn't just anyone. This was Joe and Tracy Dutton, asking me if I wanted a crack at the pick of the litter on Dutton Ranch. I don't think there's a Pinot Noir-maker in California -- even a newly retired one -- who could have said no."
The proposal was simple. Joe's brother Steve had joined forces with Dan Goldfield years back, with the founding of Dutton-Goldfield. While it was understood within the family that Dutton-Goldfield would have to pay the going rate for Dutton Ranch fruit, it went without saying that Goldfield could cherry-pick the property. In 1995, Tracy and Joe decided it was their turn, with the creation of tiny Dutton Estate -- a mere 3500-case winery that would enjoy the same privileged relationship with the farming company.
"After I hung up with Tracy, I thought about it. I came up with a million reasons to decline. But then I thought about how much fun it would be to make just a few thousand cases per year, instead of hundreds of thousands. Working with just a few rows of Manzana Pinot Noir or Dutton Palms Chardonnay -- farming it exactly as I wanted it, where cost was really no object. I waited three days to call back, but the decision was made in 20 minutes."
The first vintage Terry Adams would get his hands on would be 2009 -- what many here still call the finest Pinot Noir harvest in decades. If you were fortunate enough to lay your hands on some of Dan Goldfield's brilliant 2009s off of Dutton Ranch or Joseph Phelps's glorious 2009 "Freestone," you know all about the fabulous wild berry richness, the raspberry sourball sweetness and the tremendous backbone and persistence of this long, dry, mild growing season. If so, it's unlikely you're still reading, you've already scrolled down to the Buy Button. Few Pinot Noirs have drawn more raves from pundits and buyers over the last two years. Terry Adam's 2009 Dutton Estate Pinot Noir "Manzana Vineyard" is cut of identical material.
Brilliant, deep ruby in color with gorgeous aromas of purple plum and high toned red fruits, gently laced with violets. The attack is rich and firm like all the great 2009 Green Valley Pinot Noirs (Goldfield, Kistler, and Phelps Freestone), with deep, dark, intense raspberry concentration, vibrant sourball black cherry juiciness, silken texture, and superb fine tannin backbone.
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Tasting Notes
2009 Dutton Estate Winery Pinot Noir Manzana Vineyard Dutton Ranch
"Brilliant, deep ruby in color with gorgeous aromas of purple plum and high toned red fruits, gently laced with violets. The attack is rich and firm like all the great 2009 Green Valley Pinot Noirs (Goldfield, Kistler, and Phelps Freestone), with deep, dark, intense raspberry concentration, vibrant sourball black cherry juiciness, silken texture, and superb fine tannin backbone. Still primary and drinking beautifully now, but don't be afraid to lay it down for 3-4 years."
-- WineAccess Travel Log
"Fresh aromas of snappy berry, crushed rock, wild berry and blackberry are set off with a floral note. Full-bodied, with a long, focused finish. Drink now through 2020."
91 points -- Wine Spectator
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