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 Why We Chose Them If you've never visited the vineyards and wine towns of Piedmont, and the sloping hills that form a sort of bowl on which the magnificent vineyards of Barolo reside, you need to. Each village is distinct with varied soil types and expositions. The style of the wines of Piedmont are probably more varied than any of the world's great wine regions. La Morra and Barolo have more clayey soil, typically offering softer wines. Serralunga's highly mineral south facing vineyards provide the most structured wine. Monforte, with its sandy, calcareous soil, has both power and warmth. This is not only home to some of the greatest red wines of the world, but to an incredibly spirited, innovative band of winemakers. The innovation comes with the varieties and the terrain. The special challenge facing winemakers is one of balancing magical aromatics with the tannins and firm acid backbone of the region's principle varieties -- Nebbiolo, Barbera and Dolcetto. When you find a producer who has really mastered this balance, in superb vintages even his 'little wines' are spectacular. While in Piedmont this summer, we visited Elio and Gianluca, the winemaking magicians of Monforte. We had tasted a number of excellent 2006s before we got to Grasso's, but as expected, the Grasso wines just blew us away with their richness, aromatics, and perfect acid balance. This offer features two gorgeously honed 2006s; an unbelievably intense, deep purple Dolcetto D'Alba, and a wonderfully fragrant, luscious Nebbiolo. Winemaking techniques run the gamut in Piedmont -- from softer ultra-modern wines (these seem to be on the way out) to hard, aromatic, earthy examples. The best examples are in the middle, and no producer in the region seems to better marry fine aromatics with explosive fruit than Elio Grasso. When we asked why, in each vintage tasted (2004, 2005, 2006), the wines seemed in perfect balance, Elio led us off the terrace to the first row of vines beneath the cantina. Bending forward, he scooped up a big handful of earth. He poured the sandy, calcareous soil through our fingers. He smiled and said, "Monforte." The importer has set aside 50 cases of each of the deep purple, effusive Dolcetto D'Alba, and the beautifully honed, Burgundian Nebbiolo for WineAccess Direct customers. With free shipping on orders of 12 bottles or more, this represents one of the most engaging offers of 2007.
Best Small Hotel on the Wine Trail? If you haven't visited the cellars of Piedmont, it's a treat. Each village has its own charm. The vineyard panoramas are magnificent (pay attention on the tight turns leading up to the towns as the Piedmontese cyclists are daredevils!), and the winemakers are as charming as any in the world. If you go, be sure to look into one of our favorite hotels on the wine trail, Hotel Corte Gondina. It's a beautifully renovated house in La Morra; just 15 rooms or so. This place has the kind of elegant simplicity that you're always looking for after a day in the cellars, but sadly, rarely find. The rooms are spacious, designed with an attention to detail more commonly found in hotels twice this price. Nice pool outside and some very comfortable s-shaped rattan chaises longues that are absolutely perfect for a 5pm nap. I think we paid 125 euros a night. Ask for a room off the street. The Italians like their Vespas. |
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