Glass-staining ruby. Decadent, highly perfumed aromas of black raspberry, kirsch, potpourri and incense, with a smoky undertone. Lush, palate-staining red and dark berry compote flavors are given spine by juicy acidity and gain sweetness and power with air. For a big, weighty wine this is almost shockingly graceful. The finish repeats the dark fruit and smoke notes and leaves spices and minerals behind, eventually. Two-thirds of this cuvee, which had no name when I tasted it from barrel last year and called it "Vieilles Vignes," is from century-old grenache vines in La Crau. (Robert Kacher Selections, Washington D.C.