There is no producer in Italy who is more widely admired for the range of brilliant, expressive wines that he grows year after year. And there are few producers in the world who have not made a pilgrimage to the viticultural monument that Paolo De Marchi has brought to life at Isole e Olena.
Named for the Borro Cepparello, a tiny stream that originates above the highest vineyard at Isole e Olena, the wine is made from the most perfect clusters of Sangiovese, carefully selected and hand harvested from the best parcels on the estate. The juice macerates for three weeks in large oak vats, and matures for at least eighteen months in French barriques, of which a third are new. After bottling, the wine matures in the cellar for another full year before release.
In the glass, Cepparello has a deep garnet color, with ruby red flashes at the edge. The nose unfurls with ripe amarena cherries, sweet latakia, dried flowers, and fresh Tuscan herbs moving in and out of the background as the wine develops in the glass. On the palate, the wine is ample and fine-grained, with mineral-laced, ripe red berry and sweet plum flavors that echo the nose, all bracketed by firm, silky tannins, and softly integrated red berry acidity. The fine galestro minerality cleanses the palate and carries the flavors through a long, elegant finish. Drink now for its irresistible primary fruit, or cellar for another decade or more.
-- Greg Moore, Moore Brothers Wine Company, September 6, 2012