 The Northern region of Trentino, beckoning skiers to the Dolomites and introducing the Alps, is home to self-effacing master oenologist Diego Bolognani. Slim and chisel-featured, always neatly attired, Diego is keen on Formula One racing and is a pretty fair skier. How often does the wine reflect the man? All of his wines are as crisp as the air on an Alpine slope, fresh as a mountain stream, and racy as a Ferrari 355. Bolognani works mainly with white grapes. He believes that his sleek, aromatic whites perform best when raised in stainless steel. Bolognani Pinot Grigio leaves the myriad insipid versions in the dust. If you enjoy Santa Megafamousa, try Diego's instead-it's better wine for less money. When more of the green stuff goes into the vineyard instead of advertising, good things happen. Bolognani's vibrant Sauvignon (Blanc) more resembles the crisp, dry, minerally Sancerre of France than the voluptuous Californians or the exotically fruited New Zealanders. |
