Its deep and beautifully defined aromas of dense, curranty fruit, dusty earth and generous oak signal that something good is to come here, and the broad but classically composed and keenly fruited flavors that follow confirm every hope. Already showing an uncanny impression of layering and range, this outstanding wine is at once supple in feel yet buttressed by lots of very fine-grained tannins, and, although its essential beauty is not in the least compromised by coarseness, it is a bit tough at the finish as young Cabernet can be. Five years will make a real difference here, although ten are preferred, and, from this vantage point, the wine is clearly the best Robert Mondavi Reserve in the last decade or more.

Good saturated ruby-red. Perfumed aromas of currant, black cherry, espresso, milk chocolate and flowers; a real essence of Napa Valley cabernet. Enters the palate like silk, then builds slowly toward the back, offering a lovely light touch and plenty of inner-mouth aromatic character. Finishes with substantial but very fine tannins that reach the incisors, and lingering perfume.