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98pts and The Global Feeding Frenzy
How little is too little? WineAccess has grown like a weed over the last few years, much because of offers like this one. In our early days, when an importer came to us with one of the highest rated Brunellos in years, from one of the most talked about vintages in decades, almost regardless of quantity, we were takers. But now, when we look at allocations like this one -- a quantity the importer claims (is he full of it?) is far greater than any retailer in the country -- we're tempted to pass. What are we supposed to do with the last 108 bottles of the now legendary 2007 Poggio Antico Brunello "Altero," after the global feeding frenzy, fueled by that 98-point rating, sucked nearly every bottle off that Montalcino cellar floor? Act like the offer never came our way just so as to avoid ticking off so many of our most valued members?
Not a chance. Not this time.
The 2007 growing season in Tuscany was one-of-a-kind. Following the superb, cool, classically structured 2006 harvest, '07 ushered in intense heat, pushing the Sangiovese vines at Poggio Antico to extreme ripeness. While some in Brunello would suffer, particularly those at lower elevations or on the hotter, southern edge of the appellation, Paola Gloder Montefiori's prized deep-rooted parcel, perched at over 400 meters, was bathed in cool breezes, keeping the thick-skinned Sangiovese fresh and hydrated.
The berries that would make it to cellarmaster Claudio Ferretti's crusher were unlike anything the famed winemaker had ever seen at Poggio Antico. Natural sugars were massive, but unlike many who harvested clusters of high sugar but with under ripe seeds, Ferretti's crop featured near perfect physiological ripeness. That astounding maturity, coupled with the modernistic approach Montefiori adopts for her exquisite "Altero," explains why James Suckling called this the "best wine ever from Poggio Antico," before adding that 98-point score that sent global importers into a feeding frenzy.
When Suckling left Wine Spectator a couple years ago, after establishing his reputation as Brunello's most powerful critical voice, many wondered if the journalist would reposition his ratings once he was marching to his own drummer. From all we can see, Suckling hasn't missed a beat. Always a major proponent of the more modern school of Brunello-making (more new wood, less time in barrel), for which Montefiori is the torchbearer, Suckling was overwhelmed by this spectacular 2007 "Altero," with its warm cloak of dark fruit velour, its sumptuous opulence, and almost New World extravagance.
The color is deepest ruby right to the edge. The nose is explosive, offering up suave aromas of wild cherry tinged with kirsch and new wood vanilla, elegantly laced with sweet herbs and pine needles. Incredibly rich on the attack, with modernistic voluptuousness, packed with crushed red fruit, with silken texture still buttressed by surprising tannic persistence.
Suckling set the sales train in motion. A bit later, Parker piled on, each setting the stage for the bad news that would come late last week from our importer friend. 108 bottles. The "largest allocation in the country." What exactly are we supposed to do with just nine cases of the most sought after Brunello from one of the most talked about vintages in decades?
This one's all about damage control. We're dribbling this email out first to former blue chip Brunello and Super Tuscan buyers. Then, if anything remains, to those who have a history of spending $50 or more on WineAccess. What others never see won't hurt them.
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Tasting Notes
2007 Poggio Antico Brunello di Montalcino "Altero"
"This is the best wine ever from Poggio Antico. Aromas of blackberries and flowers follow through to a full body, with ultra-fine tannins and a polished tannin mouth-feel. This is really structured, yet elegant. Wonderful purity. Better in 2014, but who can wait?"
98 points -- James Suckling
"The 2007 Brunello di Montalcino Altero is a gorgeous, sleek wine laced with dark red cherries, kirsch, menthol, pine and spices. Sweet floral notes wrap around the silky finish. The 2007 stands out for its finessed texture and impeccable overall balance. I can't remember a more polished, elegant vintage of Altero. Poggio Antico hit it out of the park. The 2007 spent 24 months in 500-liter French oak tonneaux. Anticipated maturity: 2017-2027."
95 points -- Robert Parker's The Wine Advocate
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*Important Shipping Information
- This is a Pre-Arrival Offer: Weather permitting, wine will begin shipping upon arrival, in September, 2012.
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