Mr. Hobbs rarely stints when it comes to either deep, optimally ripened fruit or to sweet, very flamboyant oak, and, when at their best such as is clearly the case here, his Chardonnays achieve remarkable balance rarely found in wines of such volume and range. Unctuous and oily, yet never heavy, this big, amazingly rich effort seems to unfold with more and more fruit and sweet spice as it goes, but for all of its immediacy and come-hither appeal, it is structured to last and is certain to age into better.

Vivid yellow. Vibrant, exotically perfumed nose offers orange marmalade, nectarine and a livelier note of lemon zest. Tight and high-pitched on entry, then gains flesh and depth in the middle palate, offering lush pit fruit and lemon custard qualities. Distinctly rich chardonnay, but nervy acidity gives brightness and energy to the fruit. Finishes with building minerality and very good persistence.