Even among this fancy crowd, this well-aged, complex yet spry bottling has shown exceptionally well. Its aromas at first speak to everything but fruit in their toasty, roasted soy nut, toffee, chalky, almost caramelly richness, yet the underlying energy of the wine is what makes its all come together. Its bubbles are tiny and persistent, and if an extra bit of age has crept into its flavors, it is nothing more than fanciers of older Champagnes expect and enjoy.

(made from mostly grand cru chardonnay grown in Oger, Melsnil-sur-Oger, Cramant, Avize and some from premier cru Vertus; L138210-3002126): Vivid gold. Heady aromas of candied citrus fruits, flowers, truffle, gingerbread and iodine, with an intensely smoky overtone. Deep, pungent and palate-staining, with the orchard and pit fruit flavors reaching every corner of the palate and showing impressive power without any excess weight. Even more extroverted than last year's release, finishing with excellent cling and lingering smokiness.

Bright gold. Roomfilling, utterly seductive bouquet of orange, pear, jasmine, magnolia, white truffle and smoked meat. Deep, rich and broad, showing an array of orchard and citrus fruit flavors along with complicating nuances of toast, toffee and smoke. Finishes deep, rich and long, with a sappy quality. Fans of old-style Krug will love this, as will fans of white Burgundy.

Pungent, highly complex nose offers ginger, quinine, flowers and oyster shell. Bright, minerally and firm-edged, with exotic suggestions of mango, oran ge and pineapple. Wonderfully precise blanc de blancs, with terrific sweetness of fruit for a dry wine. Finishes long, juicy and nuanced, with a lingering spicy character. Delicious now but capable of gaining in complexity over the next five to ten years.