A little more volume and a bit more layering make this one our pick of the present bunch. It is sturdy without being heavy or coarse, and it is enlivened by acid without being too firm. Its wonderfully proportioned mix of deep and expansive curranty fruit, dark chocolate, cola and seamlessly fit oak are the stuff of classic Pauillac, and there are no caveats or apologies as to vintage needed here. If so rich and carefully balanced as to offer plenty to like even now, the wine has the stamina and structure grow only better and better with time.

Good ruby-red. Complex nose melds blackcurrant, minerals, graphite, tobacco and licorice. Densely packed and youthfully closed, but also lush and generous, with sweet flavors of currant, tobacco, earth and spices shaped by firm acids. As sweet as this is, it's also very firmly structured and serious. Offers outstanding palate coverage on the back.