Yet another deep and generously filled working with a fine fit of keenly defined fruit and sweet barrel-spice, this layered and well-balanced wine again exhibits plenty of substance without being the least bit beholden to ripeness. Its integral acids lend a note of verve and tension to its rich and long-lasting finish, and, while we would not argue against enjoying a glass or two now with lightly sauced lobster or salmon, it promises to expand and improve over time.

Bright straw. Complex aromas of tangerine, pear, gingerbread and smoked meat display impressive thrust and focus. Fleshy and round, with energetic citrus and citrus zest flavors and a deeper note of poached pear on the finish. Gains more weight with air and takes on an interesting musky quality.