Chenin Blanc, the most important white grape variety of the central Loire Valley, ranges in style from bone dry to medium sweet to staggeringly rich in appellations like Vouvray, Montlouis, Savennieres, and Coteaux de Layon. In all styles, expect high levels of acid that can provide tremendous amounts of balance to these wines, especially the sweeter varieties. Don't get completely discouraged by the reputation of the central Loire Valley, a fairly depressed wine region of late, where many vineyards are poorly farmed, because the best wines of the region are not just world class, they're also outstanding values.

Chenin Blanc vines have a well-earned reputation for vigor, for they are resistant to many diseases and grow well in multiple soil types. In spite of its origins in the cool-weather Loire, the grape performs well in warm climates that are often inhospitalble to many vinifera types.

Regardless of how sweet the wine is, general characteristics of Chenin include citrus fruits, peach, pear, apple, and quince, as well as spring flowers, in addition to assertive mineral and earthy notes. These wines are also incredibly rich and concentrated with long finishes. Both dry and sweet styles of Chenin Blanc are known for their longevity. Indeed, the very sweetest bottlings-- beneficiaries of botrytis (noble rot), which causes the grapes to shed water, therefore concentrating sugars and flavor-- are among the longest lived non-fortified wines in the world.

We find that Chenin Blancs from the central Loire appellation of Vouvray are some of the most intriguing-- and ageworthy-- examples of the grape. Here, depending on the site, weather, and the winemaker's proclivities, Vouvray may be dry (sec), off-dry (demi-sec), medium sweet (moelleux), or extremely rich and luscious (doux, liquoreux, or a number of other proprietary names). The best dry and off-dry Vouvrays are approachable while young, showing intriguing minerality and acidity. With a decade or more of aging, these wines will gain significant complexity, as will the moelleux wines from the region. Really, the brilliance of theses wines comes from the equillibrium between sweetness and acidity. Reliable producers include Clos Baduin, Domaine du Clos Naudin, and Domaine Huet.

Further west in the valley, the region of Savennieres produces mineral-dominated, steely examples of Chenin Blanc. These wines are austere and soil-driven in their youth, but with a decade in the cellar, they will reveal a honeyed, nutty richness. Recommended producers for this region include Domaine du Closel and Domaine des Baumard. Also consider the appellations of Montlouis and Coteaux de Layon.

In the New World, South Africa is the top destination for reasonably priced, quality Chenin Blanc. Here, the grape represented 34 percent of land under vine up to 1990, but plantings have declined in favor of grapes with greater international appeal. Still, consider the consistently strong bottlings from Ken Forrester and Mulderbosch, both grown in the spectacularly beautiful Stellenbosch region.

Pair dry Chenin Blanc with light fare, salads and goat cheese. With demi-sec wines, try pork or chicken liver pate. The balance of sweetness and acidity in moulleux wines allows them to match perfectly with foie gras.