Gewurztraminer's highly aromatic qualities make it one of the more polarizing vitis vinifera varietals in widespread cultivation: its heavy, almost perfumed scents of rose petal, grapefruit and spices are enticing to some and overwhelming to others. We suspect that this resistance is in part due to overexposure to unrefined, low acid, high alcohol examples. Even still, Gewurztraminer will never be recognized as a subtle wine, which is one reason that it pairs especially well with spicy foods that overwhelm more restrained offerings.

Found almost exclusively in cool-weather growing regions, notably Alsace, but also Germany, and Austria, Gewurztraminer is not an easy grape to grow, in part because the grape likes heat and sun. A tendency to early budding means that vines are easily damaged by frost. Even healthy vines produce small clusters of grapes, which encourages some growers to overcrop to increase yields. This tendency leads to the other extreme: too many diluted, lightweight wines.

But at its best, especially in Alsace, Gewurztraminer creates wines marked by decadent richness and appealing exotic fruit qualities. Here, the patient wine consumer will look for late harvest bottlings that combine sweetness and acidity. These wines will reward cellaring at least for five to ten years, after which they can emerge as some of the most explosive moelleux wines in the world. In addition to the late harvest versions, dry Gewurztraminers from Alsace will be more immediately accessible (even if they may still smell like sweet wines.) Look for wines from Domaine Barmes Buecher, Josmeyer, and Domaine Trimbach.

Gewurztraminer pairs well with rich, fatty dishes like pork and goose, as well as with ripe cherries. Semi-dry and sweet versions will go especially well with Alsatian munster cheese. It also works well with otherwise hard-to-pair spicy cuisines like Indian and Chinese food, thanks to its strongly aromatic flavor.