Nebbiolo is a late-ripening grape that is responsible for the great wines of Piedmont's Langhe and Monferrato hills: Barolo and Barbaresco. These are the most coveted of Italian wines among international collectors. Notoriously difficult to cultivate, Nebbiolo tends to be planted in the warmest hillside sites, where drainage is excellent. Barolo comes from Nebbiolo planted on the hills southwest of the town of Alba, while Barbaresco is made from Nebbiolo grown just to the north of Alba. Both of these wines show aromas and flavors including but not limited to cherry, plum, raspberry, licorice, mushroom, and leather. Especially with younger examples, expect plenty of bold tannins: these are big wines. With extended bottle-aging, these wines will mellow and show greater austerity.

Until recently, one could expect to wait at least ten years for a Barolo or Barbaresco to shed its initial tightness. However, production techniques have undergone some alterations, especially with Barolo, which is generally even more tannic than Barbaresco. A number of Barolo producers began dramatically shortening fermentation times and shifting from aging in large wooden casks to using some smaller French barriques. This strategy aimed to make Barolo accessible at an early age, as a response to the international market's need for instant gratification. We were somewhat concerned that this move went beyond necessary refinements in production and resulted in the loss of these wines' unique qualities. The world already has enough wines made in an indistinct, "international" style. However, if the differences in product between the traditionalists and the modernists were particularly sharp several years ago, we've found that at present a middle ground has emerged: moderate fermentation times and some combination of old casks and new barriques appear to be the order of the day. The best of these wines still benefit from 7-10 years of bottle-aging, but younger wines are now more approachable.

The richness and tannic intensity of top Nebbiolos makes them fine partners for strong flavored grilled meats and stews, as well as dry, aged cheeses.

Makers of Nebbiolo-based wines face multiple challenges. One of the largest tests is in managing the tannic structure of the grape while bringing out the wonderful aromatic complexities inherent to the variety. Viticulture is also perennially trying: the grape is sensitive to soil and geography, and it also ripens late in the season. This latter characteristic means that the grape must be planted on the best hillside exposures in order to ripen properly.

Nebbiolo has different names outside Barolo and Barbaresco. In other parts of the Piedmont it's known as Spanna- look for Gattinara and Ghemme DOCs. There's also the superb Valtellina Superiore DOCG with its Inferno and Grumello subzones. Some new world producers are experimenting with Nebbiolo plantings, most notably in California's Sierra Foothills and Central Coast as well as Australia. However, the exacting nature of Nebbiolo production has, to this point, yielded a series of disappointments.

For Barolo and Barbaresco, 2001 and 2004 stand out among recent vintages. Top producers include, but are not limited to, Vietti, Elio Grasso, Pio Cesare, and Giuseppe Rinaldi.