Pinot Gris, called Pinot Grigio in Italy, is a noble variety that, unfortunately, doesn’t always produce highly refined wine. At its best, in Alsace, where it’s usually called Tokay Pinot Gris, the wines are extremely rich and honeyed, in either a dry, or just off-dry style. Characteristic flavors include peach, apricots, tropical fruits, and spices. In texture and weight, the top Alsatian Pinot Gris are reminiscent of Chardonnay, and these wines have excellent aging capacity. To the wine consumer most familiar with crisp, inoffensive Pinot Grigio "luncheon" wines from Italy, these wines can be surprisingly complex-- and expensive. Some notable producers include Hugel, Blanck, Dirler, and Josmeyer.

The most expensive of these wines fall under the category of vendange tardive, or "late harvest," wines. These are made from late-picked, very ripe fruit and normally carry 13% to 15% alcohol, or more. These heady, powerful releases range from more or less dry to moderately sweet. For both vendange tardive and regular harvest Pinot Gris, 2005 was a particularly strong recent vintage.

In Northern Italy, Pinot Grigio has gained great commercial success while largely producing neutral, simple wines with little varietal character. But, be careful before dismissing all Italian Pinot Grigio. Certain producers are also creating well-made versions that feature pleasant apricot, apple, and pear aromas, along with firm minerality and notable acidity. We like the wines coming from Alto Aldige, one of the northernmost wine regions in Italy, where low yields and volcanic soils help produce concentrated wines with interesting mineral character. Also consider wines from Colio, a hilly sub-zone of the Friuli-Venezia-Giulia region. Some top producers from both of these regions include Felluga, Termeno, and Vie di Romans.

Oregon has also become a hot spot for Pinot Gris, and many producers are making fine, often barrel-fermented wines that are refreshingly dry, with little to no oak. Here, expect light to medium-bodied wines with notes of clean orchard fruits like apple, pear and peach. We find that the Oregon wines have more obvious fruit flavor than Italian Pinot Grigio, but less richness than Alsatian Pinot Gris. Like Italian Pinot Grigio, these wines are best consumed within several years of the vintage. Consistently strong Oregon producers include Ponzi, Adelsheim, and King Estate.

Washed-rind Munster cheese from Alsace will pair especially well with Alsatian versions of Pinot Gris; for all styles of Pinot Gris, fish is a reliable partner.