1995 Dominio de Pingus Pingus Ribera del Duero

Deep ruby-red. Mellow, deep aromas of dark berries and exotic wood tones, with a suggestion of Provençal herbs; not quite as lively or perfumed as the brighter '96. Shows the roasted, gamey ripeness that characterizes so many '95s from the region. Great sweetness and complexity in the mouth. Doesn't possess quite the sappy lift of the '96, but perhaps even more concentrated. Powerful underlying structure and palate-staining persistence. Has the thick, 3-D texture to buffer its huge, ripe tannins. I ultimately give the '96 a slight edge on sheer brightness, but this is compelling wine.