1976 R. Lopez de Heredia Vina Bosconia Gran Reserva Rioja

Pale-edged red. Multidimensional nose of raspberry, black plum, orange zest, coffee, milk chocolate, game and a superripe whiff of raisin. Uncanny sweetness in the mouth, with a strong spine of acidity framing and intensifying the fruit flavors. Really remarkable acid/fruit balance. Big, rich, powerful and deep. Finishes extremely long and magically fresh. Contains about 80% tempranillo, a bit high for Bosconia, which is always higher in tempranillo than Tondonia. The Bosconia and Tondonia gran reservas are selections made in the cellar; both are from Viña Tondonia grapes, a 100-hectare holding purchased by María Jose's great-grandfather in 1912 . Bosconia, says María Jose, is a stronger, more youthful, longer-lasting style of Rioja, with more power and body. It's for the younger generation, she adds, while the Tondonia is altogether more classical. On my last visit to this bodega, in 1994, I scored the '76 Tondonia Gran Reserva 97 points.