1985 R. Lopez de Heredia Vina Tondonia Gran Reserva Rioja

The damp, cobwebbed cellar of this ultra-traditional bodega looks like a relic from the 19th century, and it is. Most wines, including rosado and white Riojas, are released only when the producer feels they're ready, and as a result, some new releases seem old by the time they reach the American retail market. These are firmly structured, penetrating and highly idiosyncratic wines, sometimes funky and lacking in freshness, but more often nuanced and ethereal, with captivating floral, red berry, mineral, cedar and coconut notes.

The damp, cobwebbed cellar of this ultra-traditional bodega looks like a relic from the 19th century, and it is. Most wines, including rosado and white Riojas, are released only when the producer feels they're ready, and as a result, some new releases seem old by the time t... more