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92-95 Points | Stephen Tanzer's IWC - November/December 2009
(still in barrel, as Conterno felt it needed longer to resolve its tannins) Very sexy, gamey aromas of redcurrant and truffley underbrush. Like an elixir of black fruits, smoky minerals and menthol on the nose, with penetrating acidity providing almost painful cut. Also the most tannic wine in the cellar today, and incredibly primary considering the fact that it's been in wood for nearly seven years. This distinctly vertical and fascinating wine may never become totally expressive or pliant but it may live forever. For Monfortino fans with extensive collections of this great Barolo, it should also be a must purchase. The crop level here following a late harvest and strict selection was in the range of 15 hectoliters per hectare, and the high skin-to-juice ratio of the grapes is largely responsible for the wine's powerful tannic spine.