Points | International Wine Cellar , January/February 2004
This represents the first pressing of the Ratzenberger Eiswein harvest. Incredible viscosity without weight, sheer intensity of pure apricot and peach preserve character, and penetrating citricity make it difficult to differentiate subtleties. Tokaji Eszencia meets the Mittelrhein. The sweetness is swept away by the acids in the finish. 2 stars.
German vintners and Germany's wine law have often been their own worst enemies, and consumers understandably bemoan the unintelligibility of the labels as well as the mediocre quality of so many commercial-grade wines. It is a shame if this situation acts as a barrier to appreciating some of the world's most distinctive and versatile wines.
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The Riesling grape may scare away some wine novices. In Germany, where the grape reaches its finest expression, labels hew to a rigid, abstruse set of classifications, leaving newcomers with little idea what they may be looking at. Furthermore, many wine drinkers' early experiences with sweet wines from Germany (think Blue Nun), have not been especially rewarding. We say that it's your loss if you continue to fear the...
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