2003 Domaine Jean-Louis Chave Hermitage Blanc

"The white wines in 2003 can either be magic or very bad," said Jean-Louis before he poured this elixir. Pale gold. Dusty and spicy on the nose, with intense licorice, orange peel and mineral tones. Absolutely huge on the palate, with an oily, viscous texture that is shocking. The extract here is almost painful and the richness of flavor utterly compelling. Thick, buttery flavors of orchard fruits and orange bitters, complicated by minerals and smoke. The floral, honeyed finish won't let up. "You need the type of food your doctor won't let you eat," replied Jean-Louis when I asked him what he would pair this with. "Escoffier cuisine, textured foods, old-style haute cuisine like sauce Nantua, food that needs wine to cut through it."

From Peleat: Pale color. Explosive fruit on the nose: yellow plum, cling peach, ginger. Fat, sweet and rich, with superb depth of fruit. Finishes very long and honeyed. From Rocoules: Less fruity and more spearminty on the nose. Then voluptuous without being especially sweet on the palate, offering more sheer size and volume than the sample from Peleat. From L'Hermite: Yellow plum, orange peel, flower and licorice aromas. Rich, lush and sweet, with peach and mirabelle flavors complicated by a floral element. Finishes long and lush, with excellent underlying structure. There's only roussanne in L'Hermite and Rocoules. Another component: Musky aromas of hawthorn, quinine and ginger. Penetrating and firmly built, with lovely acids for the year. Stylish, spicy, firm and very long. The blend should be the white Hermitage of the vintage, although Chapoutier's top cuvees parcellaires may give this a run for its money-and yours.