87 Points | Connoisseurs' Guide to California Wine
Points | International Wine Cellar , January/February 2005
($37) Very ripe and exotic on the nose, mingling quince and mango. Sleek, pure, creamy and refined in its display of tropical and orchard fruits, vanilla and malt. Lingering flavors of flowers, sweet herbs, spices and throat-coating fruit and wet stone. 2 stars.
German vintners and Germany's wine law have often been their own worst enemies, and consumers understandably bemoan the unintelligibility of the labels as well as the mediocre quality of so many commercial-grade wines. It is a shame if this situation acts as a barrier to appreciating some of the world's most distinctive and versatile wines.
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The Riesling grape may scare away some wine novices. In Germany, where the grape reaches its finest expression, labels hew to a rigid, abstruse set of classifications, leaving newcomers with little idea what they may be looking at. Furthermore, many wine drinkers' early experiences with sweet wines from Germany (think Blue Nun), have not been especially rewarding. We say that it's your loss if you continue to fear the...
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