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2003 Selbach Oster Graacher Domprobst Riesling Auslese
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no stars Points | International Wine Cellar , January/February 2005

($37) Aromas of pineapple, grapefruit, cassis, baked apple and honey. Spiced, baked apple, tropical fruit and rich nut oils on the palate. This really displays density without weight. Impeccably balanced and firmly shaped, without the overt sweetness of so many 2003s and with a lovely clarity of finish that lets you perceive the nutty-stony essence of this site. There was more botrytis here, says Selbach, than in most of his Auslesen. (A more freshly fruited "one-star" Domprobst Auslese was much less expressive and was tripped up a bit by bitterness.) 2 stars.

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About Germany

German vintners and Germany's wine law have often been their own worst enemies, and consumers understandably bemoan the unintelligibility of the labels as well as the mediocre quality of so many commercial-grade wines. It is a shame if this situation acts as a barrier to appreciating some of the world's most distinctive and versatile wines.
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Riesling

The Riesling grape may scare away some wine novices. In Germany, where the grape reaches its finest expression, labels hew to a rigid, abstruse set of classifications, leaving newcomers with little idea what they may be looking at. Furthermore, many wine drinkers' early experiences with sweet wines from Germany (think Blue Nun), have not been especially rewarding. We say that it's your loss if you continue to fear the...
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