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2003 Willi Schaefer Graacher Domprobst Riesling Auslese #14 (half bottle)
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Points | International Wine Cellar , January/February 2005

($74) From a parcel that yielded a particularly small crop. Aromas of gooseberry, redcurrant jam and mandarin orange, with a honeyed top note of botrytis. Concentrated sweet/tart palate impression on the palate which, owing to youthfully yeasty notes, promotes an impression of berry-filled buttered pastry. Shot through with animating citricity, invigoratingly tart berry character, and bracing salinity that play against the honeyed sweetness. Not typical 2003 character. What clarity and grip this has! (A vintage-typical oily, viscous, desiccated fruit-dominated Domprobst Auslese A. P. #18 was not in the same league.) 2 stars.

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About Germany

German vintners and Germany's wine law have often been their own worst enemies, and consumers understandably bemoan the unintelligibility of the labels as well as the mediocre quality of so many commercial-grade wines. It is a shame if this situation acts as a barrier to appreciating some of the world's most distinctive and versatile wines.
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Riesling

The Riesling grape may scare away some wine novices. In Germany, where the grape reaches its finest expression, labels hew to a rigid, abstruse set of classifications, leaving newcomers with little idea what they may be looking at. Furthermore, many wine drinkers' early experiences with sweet wines from Germany (think Blue Nun), have not been especially rewarding. We say that it's your loss if you continue to fear the...
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