Points | International Wine Cellar , January/February 2005

($13) A new acquisition in the Drachenstein site has enabled Leitz to grow this brand, but the quality has not suffered. Enormously concentrated and bright, with dominant cherry liqueur and fresh lemon flavors. Lime, peach and tangerine zest lend aromatic and gustatory support. Positively deep and rich as well as blazingly bright and salty in the finish. The quartzite soil and high elevation here (as in the Kaisersteinfels terraces to the immediate west) seem to have been favored this year, and the picking was later than in Klosterlay or Magdalenenkreuz, giving flavors more time to develop, and extending into a period of cooler nights that helped fix the acid levels. This is so keyed up I suspect it simply needs to calm down a bit. Potential 2 stars.