2003 The Ojai Vineyard Syrah Melville Vineyard Sta. Rita Hills

As a group, the Ojai Syrahs rank among the very richest and most deeply extracted wines of this month's line-up, and this particular bottling is all about size, ripeness and pure power. Its intense, full-volume aromas of chocolate, game and very ripe berries are followed up with bold and outgoing flavors that are simply loaded varietal spice and extravagant fruit. There is more than a little tannin coming on at the finish, but there is no let-up at all in terms of richness and fruit, and while so sweet and fleshy as to tempt early drinking, this is one best set aside for three or four years.

Dark ruby. Impressively perfumed bouquet of ripe blackcurrant and candied licorice, with suave floral and mineral nuances emerging in the glass. Supple and sweet, with deep but lively dark fruit liqueur flavors, silky tannins and impressive finishing lift. This is really delicious.