2002 Paul Hobbs Winery Cabernet Sauvignon Beckstoffer To-Kalon Vineyard Oakville Napa Valley

In truth, little about this massively built offering really surprises, given Mr. Hobbs's penchant for wines of commanding concentration and depth; and, while we expect that some might suggest that its extravagant oak and very ripe style are too much of a good thing, we admit to being wholly won over. As full, as fleshy and as out-and-out mouthfilling as any Cabernet from the vintage, it is a hedonist's dream with the solidity, structure and unstinting fruit to last and improve for a very long time.

Good saturated ruby. Superripe aromas of cassis, black raspberry, bitter chocolate and licorice; less herbal than this producer's other cabernets from this vintage. A fine-grained fruit bomb, with a captivating sweetness. This really expands on the back half yet dances on the palate. The lush tannins reach the incisors.