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2003 Paul Achs Blaufrankisch Edelgrund
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Points | International Wine Cellar , November/December 2004

($28; from cask) The nose here has a cigar ash cast reminiscent of tempranillo. A terrific core of juicy fruit inhabits the palate, wrapped in a rich, fatty envelope with spicy, salty accents of oak and mineral. Salts and berries stick to the finish with a resinous adhesion. (The 2002 rendition, like several 2002s at this address, was far less interesting, and less able to carry its barrel influence.) Potential 2 stars.

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About Austria

Austrian wine has rapidly gained in international stature in the past decade, mostly on the strength of Austria's dry white wines produced within a 20-mile radius of the small city of Krems on the Danube, less than 50 miles west of Vienna. The steep, terraced, riverside vineyards of the Wachau, immediately west of Krems, as well as geologically diverse sites on the edges of the city and to the north in the Kamptal, yield...
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