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2003 Joh. Jos. Prum Bernkasteler Badstube Riesling Auslese
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no stars Points | International Wine Cellar , January/February 2005

($40) Black cherry, white peach, lime and vanilla in the nose. Toasted nut and alkaline mineral notes accent a sweet mouthful of peach, quince and banana. Creamy yet with underlying mineral firmness and persistent brightness. This split personality, along with the increasingly honeyed, smoky, quince fruit character the wine takes on with air, reminds me of a Loire Valley chenin blanc. Quince jelly, caramelized peach, black cherries in syrup and wet stone inform the long, strong finish. 2 stars.

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About Germany

German vintners and Germany's wine law have often been their own worst enemies, and consumers understandably bemoan the unintelligibility of the labels as well as the mediocre quality of so many commercial-grade wines. It is a shame if this situation acts as a barrier to appreciating some of the world's most distinctive and versatile wines.
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Riesling

The Riesling grape may scare away some wine novices. In Germany, where the grape reaches its finest expression, labels hew to a rigid, abstruse set of classifications, leaving newcomers with little idea what they may be looking at. Furthermore, many wine drinkers' early experiences with sweet wines from Germany (think Blue Nun), have not been especially rewarding. We say that it's your loss if you continue to fear the...
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