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93-96 Points | Stephen Tanzer's IWC - January/February 2005
Dee p red-ruby. Blackberry, truffle, bacon fat, coffee and black pepper on the wild nose; a bit less extravagant and more sophisticated today than the Landonne. Dense and large-scaled but more reserved than the Landonne, despite its generosity of texture and sucrosite This, too, is carrying alcohol near 14%, but it comes across as more sappy than the Landonne (the Landonne has a pH near 3. 9, while this is between 3. 8 and 3. 85, with alcohol around 14%). Finishes with huge but very fine tannins and great persistence. Today, this conveys a stronger impression of terroir than Rostaing's other 2003s. Again, Rostaing wondered out loud if this and the Landonne are "typical" Cote-Roties, but they are undeniably impressive. "In 1999, we were shocked by the ripeness of our fruit, but we're now getting used to the warmer climate," Rostaing admitted.