2004 Ridge Vineyards Zinfandel Pagani Ranch Sonoma Valley

16% Alicante Bouschet; 4% Petite Sirah; 4% Other. This wine often reaches exaggerated levels of ripeness and dried grape con -centration, but, in the current vintage, it has displays admirable depth and far-ranging fruit without resort to excess To be sure, it is wholly concentrated and shows an emphasis on blackberry fruit but in no way does it approach the 2003 which, despite earning 90 points, was described as "out in front of the pack when it comes to sheer volume and unbridled ripeness". Indeed, there is even a touch of latter palate restraint and tightness to be found in this rendition. This is stunning stuff built along the lines of table wine Zinfandel. Bravo.