2004 Kongsgaard Wines Chardonnay Napa Valley

Full yellow. Crystallized lemon peel, smoke, truffle, fresh herbs and strong soil tones on the nose. Then superconcentrated and distinctly wild in the mouth, with flavors of roasted almond, bacon fat and caraway seed. "Not a pineapple to be found," says Kongsgaard, who has little interest in what he has called "fermentation fruits." Here the alcoholic fermentations linger for months, typically finishing well after the malos, and of course the wines remain on their lees in barrel for nearly 20 months. Finishes very dry and very long. Made from a blend of sites, including "mom's place in Napa" and the Hudson and Hyde vineyards.