2004 Domaine Jean-Francois Coche-Dury Corton Charlemagne

Reticent but pure nose hints at minerals and clove, along with a metallic quality. Distinctly less sweet today than the Perrieres, with a flavor of liquid stone. Wonderfully precise, dry wine with a very long, slow-building finish. Coche told me that he stirred the lees until the July '05 racking. "Maybe it was too much, but the wines needed enriching," he told me. All of these 2004s were bottled in April of 2006. Coche's young '05s were unavailable for tasting as the malos had barely started.