2004 Kongsgaard Wines Chardonnay The Judge Napa Valley

Wilder, more reduced nose than the 2005, with notes of mocha, smoke and nutty oak. Then broad, dry and full: this is almost too big for the mouth. This glyceral-thick chardonnay boasts staggering volume, but in spite of its almost exotic thickness and tropical fruit notes, I'd still like to put this in a blind tasting of top grand cru Burgundies. The wine's solid mineral underpinning began to express itself with aeration.