2004 Fratelli Brovia Dolcetto d'Alba Solatio

The split between modernity and tradition in Piedmont is a bit of a false choice. For an example, the Brovia family makes rich, pliant but firmly structured wines that strike a balance between old school and new. The Brovias eschew barriques but have nonetheless begun to use somewhat smaller casks than in the past. Today's Barolas and Barbaresco are more approachable in their youth, but still appear to be capable of long aging in bottle. Fratelli Brovia also makes intensely fruity, structured Dolcetto and Barbera wines that, like the Barolos made here, strike a balance between complex earth tones and fresh, lively fruit.

The split between modernity and tradition in Piedmont is a bit of a false choice. For an example, the Brovia family makes rich, pliant but firmly structured wines that strike a balance between old school and new. The Brovias eschew barriques but have nonetheless begun to us... more