94 Points | International Wine Cellar , January/February 2007
($90) Pale golden yellow. Fine bouquet of candied papaya, ginger and lemon oil, with a whiff of botrytis. The rich, juicy pineapple fruit and subtle, creamy texture harmonize nicely within a framework of elegant acidity. Crisp slate animates the long finish. Wonderfully balanced wine with considerable promise.
German vintners and Germany's wine law have often been their own worst enemies, and consumers understandably bemoan the unintelligibility of the labels as well as the mediocre quality of so many commercial-grade wines. It is a shame if this situation acts as a barrier to appreciating some of the world's most distinctive and versatile wines.
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The Riesling grape may scare away some wine novices. In Germany, where the grape reaches its finest expression, labels hew to a rigid, abstruse set of classifications, leaving newcomers with little idea what they may be looking at. Furthermore, many wine drinkers' early experiences with sweet wines from Germany (think Blue Nun), have not been especially rewarding. We say that it's your loss if you continue to fear the...
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