2005 Lemelson Vineyards Pinot Noir Thea's Selection Willamette Valley

Enormously rich in both ripe, concentrated black cherry fruit and in toasty, creamy oak, the nose of this medium-full-bodied effort jumps out of the glass and suggests that a bold, fairly dramatic wine is going to follow in the mouth. Instead, there is far more refinement than expected, and while there are also deep, fleshy notes at entry, it is the wine's balance and palate-cleansing acid that ultimately tells the tale here. Look for this one to grow into a smoother stance over time.

Light-medium red. Peppery red berries and cherry on the nose, with dusty floral and mineral qualities adding energy. Red fruit flavors offer good clarity and light weight, with an orange zest quality adding verve. This was raised in just over 50% new oak but I don't sense it. Finishes brisk and clean, with excellent lift.