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92 Points | Stephen Tanzer's IWC - March/April 2008
($30; a blend of 70% garganega and 30% trebbiano di Soave) Bright straw-yellow. Deceptively subdued but pure nose hints at white flowers, green apple and pear, complicated by sweet underbrush and strong mineral qualities. There's laser-like precision to the green apple and citrus flavors, with a steely mineral underpinning giving the wine great refinement and vibrancy. Finishes long and exceptionally pure, with lingering notes of minty thyme and stone fruits. Aged in steel and made entirely without oak, this is a less immediate wine than the barrique-aged La Rocca bottling. And though I can understand the latter's up-front appeal, I feel it is Calvarino that best exemplifies great Soave.