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2005 Pieropan Soave Classico Superiore Calvarino
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92 Points | Stephen Tanzer's IWC - March/April 2008

($30; a blend of 70% garganega and 30% trebbiano di Soave) Bright straw-yellow. Deceptively subdued but pure nose hints at white flowers, green apple and pear, complicated by sweet underbrush and strong mineral qualities. There's laser-like precision to the green apple and citrus flavors, with a steely mineral underpinning giving the wine great refinement and vibrancy. Finishes long and exceptionally pure, with lingering notes of minty thyme and stone fruits. Aged in steel and made entirely without oak, this is a less immediate wine than the barrique-aged La Rocca bottling. And though I can understand the latter's up-front appeal, I feel it is Calvarino that best exemplifies great Soave.

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About Italy

Italy, like France, offers a world of wine styles within a single country: dry Italian white wines ranging from lively and minerally to powerful and full-bodied; cheap and cheerful Italian red wines in both a cooler, northern style and a richer, warmer southern style; structured, powerful reds capable of long aging in bottle; sparkling wines; sweet wines and dessert wines.
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