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96 Points | Stephen Tanzer's IWC - January/February 2009
($240; 93% marsanne and 7% roussanne, raised for 30 months in new barriques Light yellow. Kaleidoscopic bouquet of singed orange, musky herbs, potpourri, brown butter, smoky minerals, tarragon and fresh bay. Weighty citrus and dried pit fruit and cherry(!) flavors are complicated by candied licorice, botanical herbs and toasted grain, completely saturating the palate. This has the texture of a red wine, and some of the same flavors too, but there's also striking finesse and clarity. The finish clings endlessly, repeating the smoke and mineral notes.