2005 Earthquake Petite Sirah Lodi

By David and Michael Phillips. Dense, fully extracted blackberry fruit separates this very ripe and lavishly oaked wine from the crowd, and, if neatly avoiding the tongue-curing tannins that are almost de rigeur with the grape, it exhibits plenty of richness and mildly peppery, varietal spice. Serviceable now with hearty braised meat recipes, it will not simply soften with age but has the structure and fruity depth necessary to hold up and improve for another half-dozen years.