2005 Paul Hobbs Winery Cabernet Sauvignon Beckstoffer To-Kalon Vineyard Oakville Napa Valley

This stunning effort stands as our favorite of the remarkable lot of new 2005s from Paul Hobbs, and its seductive sensations of deep, optimally ripened curranty fruit and sweet-scented earth speak to the vinous virtues that make classic Napa Valley Cabernet unique in the world, and its generous dollop of lovely oak completes a near-perfect picture. Big, balanced and already showing a sense of polish that is uncommon in a wine of its age, it will tempt early drinking, but should be set aside for no less than six to ten years.

Dark purple. Hugely aromatic nose offers cherry, blackcurrant, cured tobacco, roasted coffee and licorice. Dense and weighty but fresh, with energetic red and dark fruit flavors, chewy texture and a wallop of vanilla on the back end. Combines depth, power and energy deftly, with superb finishing clarity and thrust. This won't let go of the palate.