2005 Ridge Vineyards Geyserville Sonoma County

77% Zinfandel; 17% Carignane; 6% Petite Sirah. Some years back Ridge removed the varietal identifier from its Geyserville red wine made substantially from Zinfandel but a field-blend in reality. But whatever they call it, it has been and continues to be a terrific Zinfandel by any standard. Its deep but still developing aromas of berries, brownies and sweet oak give way to more open and accessible ripe-berry flavors, and, contrary to the latter-day norm, the wine is free of excessive ripeness or evident heat. It has the depth to enjoy now, but given Geyserville's track record for longevity and the wine's nascent character, it is wise to cellar away a few bottles.

Dark red. Seductively perfumed aromas of raspberry, cherry, lavender and minerals lifted by exotic Asian spices. Seems almost light for zinfandel, with a silky texture and deep, sweet red and dark berry flavors. The tannins are nicely folded into the fruit, creeping gently out on the finish. A very impressive blend, with superb balance and flavor definition.