2006 Grgich Hills Cellars Fume Blanc Napa Valley

In our recent tasting of older Sauvignon Blancs, no wine showed better with long-aging than the Grgich Hills 1983. These wines are always tight when young, and, at times, they make us wince at their bracing acidity. But, here is a wine that, while firm and only ready to drink for those who care for lean, brisk fruit as the first order of business, is so loaded with depth and promise that some of it should be put away for another day. Hide some in the cellar and let it pick up the roundness to lift its bracing flavors into full and rewarding balance.