2006 Domaine Jean-Francois Coche-Dury Corton Charlemagne

The aromas of liquid stone and menthol offer superb lift. On the palate, this offers a tactile dusty stone character and a sense of mineral solidity verging on painful. Among the handful of stars of the vintage in both its sheer intensity and its palate-staining persistence, but in need of at least five or six years of patience. A great, gripping, somewhat saline wine that would pair magically with crustaceans. More glyceral than the '05 but perhaps not quite as high in dry extract-and not nearly as backward.