2006 Chateau Beau-Sejour Becot Saint Emilion

70% Merlot; 24% Cabernet Franc; 6% Cabernet Sauvignon. This tobacco-scented bottling comes with complexing notes of loam and forest-floor spice, but it is somewhat less generous in the fruity succulence one wants in wines governed by Merlot, and, even though St. Emilion need not mirror Napa, big-time success requires a little more fruit than shown here.

Bright ruby-red. Ripe but youthfully withdrawn nose hints at black fruits, licorice, espresso, violet and minerals. Supple, suave and dense, with a lightness of touch and excellent calcaire energy to the flavors of black fruits, graphite and licorice. Finishes suave, with substantial fine-grained tannins and palate-coating smoothness. Subtle and very easy to drink.