2003 Casanova di Neri Brunello di Montalcino Tenuta Nuova

Saturated ruby-red. Low-toned aromas of roasted black fruits, licorice pastille and chocolate verge on port-like. Silky on entry, then fat and thick in the middle, with a pruney quality to the highly concentrated flavors of dark raspberry, dried currant and nutty oak. Finishes with notes of raisins and walnuts, a bit in the style of dry port. Undeniably mouthcoating wine but I find it lacking in energy-and I would never have identified it as sangiovese.